Woke to the peak of an easterly groundswell. At 7.55am a 10ft+ 5 wave set rolled through my local break. No chance of getting out unless you had a chopper. 10 mins down the road I surfed some nice 4-6 footers...Kuni Takanami got the shot below of me in a little green womb.
A Mick Waters film. We worked on my section in this film for about 6 months. I was just learning to surf again after having my back cut open and stapled back together. The doctors said I wouldn't be able to surf again. This is my journey of proving them wrong...Should send it to them...haha ha
LITTLE BLACK WHEELS Trailer
Preview - Mick Waters new surf film. Surfers Beau Young, Dave Rastovich, James McMillan, Johnny Abegg, Mark Healey...
Blue Yonder short film Trailer
Preview - a short film by Mick Waters and James McMillan. Surfers Derek Hynd, Ozzie Wright, James McMillan, Andrew Kidman. Music by Andrew Kidman
"THE BEST THINGS IN LIFE ARE FREE; GOD, FAMILY, LOVE, SURFING & ART." JMc
Quote: Derek Hynd, The Surfers Path magazine April/May edition 2007: "Jimmy's is an everyman tale that most surfers could've taken on but never did, might've taken on but didn't dare. There's a hint of madness for what he's started and hasn't yet finished." Derek was describing my Blue Yonder journey (and beyond). For more info see my book and short film, Blue Yonder, a journey into the heart of surf culture.