Wednesday, December 28, 2011

secretsk8

This spot is in town at the back of a park filled with pine trees. I used to take my groms there when they first started skating and we called it the secret skate park cause no one was ever there



Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Boxing Day Byron Bay


Woke to the peak of an easterly groundswell. At 7.55am a 10ft+ 5 wave set rolled through my local break. No chance of getting out unless you had a chopper. 10 mins down the road I surfed some nice 4-6 footers...Kuni Takanami got the shot below of me in a little green womb.



Thursday, December 22, 2011

My Asym


When I first got on my new Darcy assymetrical I was kind of trying to think my way through each wave, because I was on a 5'8 quad on one rail and a 5'10 keel on the other rail. A full-on mindtrip. During one paddleout trance I had a nice revelation come to me...I went back to Feelin' it. And then I got it. Darcy calls it the daytripper. I call it the schizo. It's weird and very fast and I love it. See how it goes in the overhead east swell coming on Christmas day...



Saturday, December 10, 2011

Pinch more salt


Some shots from the night. Was Huge by the way. All the usual stuff we love to look at, listen to, eat and drink, in an unusual place...The Darcy Surfboards factory in Currumbin. Well done to the Darcy family who didn't sleep eat or surf much at all while setting this all up. The whole purpose was to raise enough coin for 'Surfing Wantoks' to ship a container or two of surfboards, food, furniture and other goodies up to Papua New Guinea and into communities that need it much more than we do. They raised $10,000!! Mostly in beer sales I'd say, and a bit of art got sold too. Surfboards to be auctioned online...









Thursday, December 1, 2011

Pinch of Salt


Hanging works last night and painting one of Darcy's surfboards right now for their Pinch of Salt event at Darcy surfboards factory this FRiday night 2nd of Dec. Bands, art, puppy dogs, music, other stuff...