Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Love You Mum



There was a new south swell on Mothers day. Not big, just new. After giving our Mum's their due attention me and my boys checked the waves. Out front was about 5ft. My groms couldn't get out so we went for a cruise into the Bay ending up at Wategoes. There was a longboard comp on the go and about 100 old fellas hanging round. I said hello to a few I knew and checked out some nice logs and resin tints. The waves were 2-3ft, real smooth and real inconsistent, most crew were surfing the point but I spotted a sneaky peak to the left with about 8 surfers on it. I told my boys, Colby and Blake, that it was the best were gonna find. They were all over it, with Blake having hesitations about the 'crowd'...He's an 11 year old soul surfer...likes nothing more than surfing alone, or at the most, with a few dolphins. After being in the water for about 15 minutes we found ourselves sitting on an improving peak with no one out. Yeeew! We'd timed it just right with the contest presentation. The groms ripped up a few lefts on their thrusters and I got a couple on my 9'3" log. Later that afternoon I was feeling all Deep&strange so I grabbed my camera and went for a ride to my local beach. There wasn't one surfer in sight and fisho's aplenty. As the sun set behind the mountains and the light faded I watched the last waves of the day roll through. Dusk and dawn are my favourite times to take photos. With low light it's challenging to capture what your eyes see. I like altering my camera settings and getting slightly tweaked images like these. Happy Mum's Day.





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