This session was straight out front of my place. I can't say where cause the locals will blow up my letterbox. The waves were 4-6ft and there was the added buzz of having huge boulders right in front of every wave I caught. Lisa took the photos and I rode my 6'4 Darcy thruster with the snapped nose - it happened three days prior at this same spot when the bottom dropped out of a wave that I thought was a sure tuberide...I remember being perched in the lip on my feet in a super low stance and looking left, about 20 metres down the line. The wave was about 5ft and in the motions of going vertical and tubular. In my mind i was about to get tubed, meanwhile in reality the wave doubled-up, sucked-out and heaved forward. I was under the lip so I didn't get pitched, but there was no back to the wave, and to my absolute surprise I dropped straight onto the flats. The last thing my left eye saw was that circular tube rifling off without me. Not often you get a view from that far back in the tube. Probably the best moment of my session. I'll never forget it.
THese shots are sick! your whole blog is very impressive, feels like there's a secret jimmy that rarely shows himself at work, good to see another dimension!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous!
ReplyDeletehey, my name is chloe and i am one of the three you took a photo of in july, busking outside the northern in byron, (the ones with ukulele's and a salior hat)i was just wondering if you still had that photo and if you could possibly email it to me
ReplyDeletemy email is chloeabotomey@gmail.com
Your blog is really good and so is your art, i also saw it in a gallery in byron.
thanks