Monday, April 5, 2010
This session was straight out front of my place. I can't say where cause the locals will blow up my letterbox. The waves were 4-6ft and there was the added buzz of having huge boulders right in front of every wave I caught. Lisa took the photos and I rode my 6'4 Darcy thruster with the snapped nose - it happened three days prior at this same spot when the bottom dropped out of a wave that I thought was a sure tuberide...I remember being perched in the lip on my feet in a super low stance and looking left, about 20 metres down the line. The wave was about 5ft and in the motions of going vertical and tubular. In my mind i was about to get tubed, meanwhile in reality the wave doubled-up, sucked-out and heaved forward. I was under the lip so I didn't get pitched, but there was no back to the wave, and to my absolute surprise I dropped straight onto the flats. The last thing my left eye saw was that circular tube rifling off without me. Not often you get a view from that far back in the tube. Probably the best moment of my session. I'll never forget it.