Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Lisa and I did a lil' roadie to Noosa last week. I'd been real keen to get my 9'3 single on a few tea tree walls for a looong time. There was swell about too, so the anticipation was pretty high. After dropping in to see Josh and the crew at Solace surf Lisa and I hightailed it to the points (even after Josh threw us some local knowledge of a perfect peak over at sunshine Beach). Now this was only the third time i'd ever been to Noosa, so I was like a naive traveller envisioning said surf location through rose-tinted sunnies and images of McTavish and his '48 Holden at Nationals. Anyway all the smiles and big eyes were turned to straight faces when we pulled up at Nasho's at dusk to be greeted by slop. Nice sunset though.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
My old Mackie 5'6" fish. Was a definite favourite. Fast, loose and slippery. The biggest surf I ever rode it in was in 2005 at Blueys beach in Foster NSW. 6ft wedges bouncing off the headland and tapering steep down the beach. It was the only time I ever had to grab its rail through a cutty. Michael handmade those enormous fibreglass fins. I remember showing this board to Greenough in 2003 on the Blue Yonder journey. He said, 'it needs timber fins'. The colour photos were taken in 2001 and the B & W about 2 months ago when it rose from the dead.
My nephew Luke, aka Lones, is up visiting from Sydney at the mo'. We been surfing, arting, eating and mulching my fruit trees. Luke's a street artist and enjoys nothing more than a big blank wall, 10 fresh cans of ironlak paint and his own homebrand music beating from his iphone. Looking for waves on the road today he was quick to spot these guys across the field rolling up and setting up for an afternoon of painting. Not just 'writers', but the best in Oz. I've done a small amount of street art, and nothing like this. It was in Brisbane after seeing Wolfmother play. We ended up sleeping on the street that night and in the early hours of the following morning we found a blank power box and made our mark with textas and crayons. I was a street artist for 2 hours (I'm a studio artist. See; garage artist). Next time your heading into the Bay look left and you'll see these finished pieces from 'Next' and 'Sofles'.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
At Lennox Head beach the other day these two birdies were hanging out in the sky just above where I was surfing. They were doin that thing animals do where they follow and mimick each other. It's a collective consciousness type deal where animals are naturally unconsciously reacting in unison. (breathe now). It's an unplanned dance of sorts. Schools of fish do it real well. I've seen humans do it too, without such graceful results. More photos of these two gulls before end of the week. (and the waves below).