Darcy 5'9"
Surfing could be a metaphor, for my life. My life could be a metaphor, for my art. Up, down, good, evil, fun, shxt. My life usually goes something like this; The night before most given days, I will check the weather, and then plan my day. It all revolves around the weather. Set alarm, usually for 6am. Wake up. Stare out window and check wind. To surf now, or later? I'll drift and think, and then usually do something like, stare at my previous nights paintings, meditate on my dreams, or a bit of reading in the morning light. If I planned to surf early it's dangerous for me to stare at my paintings because there's always something not finished, and this makes me wanna paint. And If I do paint, I don't surf. Time flies when surfing. Time super-flies when painting. I've had quite a few 6am 2 hour painting sessions where I'll step back, look at what I've achieved and look at the time and just go, What!!. Same as surfing...sometimes a handful of waves in an hour, What!! . But this past week was a good week. I met up with Darcy at his factory and agreed on the shapes of some new boards, I began working on 5 new paintings, sold 2 other new paintings, and the local rivermouth was pretty-well pumping, between 2 -5ft.
'passing through' (renamed 'coming home') Sold
'wow, finally' Sold
Due to my unpredictability with inspired painting times my surfing is usually done alone or with my sons, but this meta4 week I managed to surf with a couple of friends, Andrew Kidman, and on another day, Mick Waters. Both times were small clean left wedges. Andrew and I swapped boards for a few waves. He was on a Mackie 5'5"(?) extreme flextail fish. I was on my Darcy 5'9" twin keel fish. Mick was on his Kidman shaped widow and he and I surfed with my sons Colby and Blake.
ColbyMc 1
ColbyMc 2
BlakeMc 1
BlakeMc 2
BlakeMc 3
Mr McMeta4
This wasn't a down, evil, and shxt week. This was a good week. Since writing this, I figure that surfing is not a meta4, for my life, nor my life, a meta4 for my art. I am a meta4 of their end result.
studio things
studio
